Instrument Cluster - MIL Circuit
Introduction
| Removal Procedure
| Related Information
| Autocheck Info
| MIL Circuit
|
Tools Required
:
Cross-headed screwdriver
Long thin 'terminal' screwdriver
Miniature screwdriver or probe
Soldering Iron, Wire strippers, cutters &
Pliers
8mm socket & driver
An optional multimeter can be handy !
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Time Required :
About 1-2 hours, depending on electrical skills
Parts Required :
2W inst bulb (green)
893 919 040A
1m length of cable (0.5mm2)
Splice or Spade connectors - your choice
Small tie-wraps and/or insulating tape
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WARNING !
It is not absolutely necessary to disconnect
the battery before doing this job as all the relevant connectors
have female plugs, but it is better to be safe than sorry with all
electrical tasks and the negative lead at the battery should be disconnected
if you are in any doubt about proceeding further.
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What is the MIL circuit ?
It is a little known fact
that Audi 80 & Coupes exported to the USA had to comply with
Californian legislation which dictated that the driver had to be
informed of certain (emission related) engine fault conditions by
means of a warning lamp. This is known as the Malfunction Indicator
Lamp - or MIL for short.
The MIL circuit is not fully wired up
on Audi 80s & Coupes that were not destined for California, but
I have discovered how to activate this function on the S2 after many
hours of 'reverse engineering' the instrument cluster and probing round
the wiring loom.
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Why should I be interested in a MIL circuit ?
The MIL circuit is connected
to the blue coloured OBD plug that is fitted to the car which is
ultimately controlled by the ECU. This same blue (MIL) plug can be
used to retrieve fault / blink codes from the ECU.
All of this means that, by adding a
MIL circuit onto the S2 cluster, there would be no need for messing
about with LEDs and test lamps to pull fault
codes
. But more importantly, the MIL circuit will inform the
S2 driver of many active fault conditions that the ECU can detect
whilst the engine is running. It does this by illuminating the MIL
until the fault clears. Any faults are stored in the ECU and can then
be blinked out on the MIL as soon as it is convenient to do so.
The cost of adding the MIL circuit is very low indeed - needing
only a single instrument bulb, a short section of narrow guage cable
and a connector or two.
NOTE - The MIL circuitry does
not flash out the blink
codes
until the blink code sequence is activated as normal.
This prevents driver distraction.
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How
do I wire up the MIL circuit in my S2 ?
The following gives a fairly
detailed description, in three parts, as to how the MIL circuit can
be activated on the S2. I have proved it out on my 94 ABY but it has
also been proven out on a 3B. It is very simple electrics requiring a single
wire be added to the loom and a new bulb be added to the instrument cluster
in an unused location. Some soldering skills are needed along with basic
electrical tools.
Some links below are to related pages on this site, others
link to decent sized JPG photos. There are also some embedded images
in this page where necessary.
PART 1 - Preparing the Loom
- Firstly, remove the instrument cluster
as described here
, and set it to one side in a safe place to prevent damage until
Part 2
below.
- Locate the
yellow coloured 26-pin connector (T26) behind the instrument
cluster and snip off the tie-wrap which secures the wiring to the
connector shell. Be extra careful to only snip the tie wrap !
- Using a miniature screwdriver (or
a fine tipped probe), tease apart the hood from this
yellow connector and slide it off to expose the
electrical wiring and connection pins
as shown in this photo
.
- Locate pin 24 (twenty four) on the
yellow connector.
The connector moulding is numbered to assist with this task - it is
two from the end
as shown in this photo
. Pin 24 is an unused connection point, so there should be no
wire attached to this pin - until these tasks are complete.
If your car is an MY95 vehicle, fitted with the factory immobiliser, then
this connection point must NOT be used. Click here for more details and an
alternate lamp location.
- Again using the miniature screwdriver
(or probe), GENTLY disengage the locking tab for pin 24 and
remove it from the yellow connector,
as shown here
.
- A special crimping tool is specified
for these pins, which none of us will likely have access to, so I
recommend that a soldering iron is used to connect a 1m length of multicore
(0.5mm 2 diameter) cable onto this pin. If you choose
cable which is too thick then this will be difficult and the pin may
not fit back into the connector.
- Carefully return the locking tab
of the connector pin (with new wire attached) to its original position
and slide it back into position 24 (twenty four) of the
yellow cluster connector. It will lock itself into
place.
- Reassemble the
yellow connector hood, taking care not to snag
any cables and attach a new tie wrap onto the connector hood when
finished. With this new length of wire dangling from the
yellow cluster connector the fiddliest task
is complete.
PART 2 - Preparing the Cluster
- Now the attention turns to the instrument
cluster... With the cluster lying face down on a soft surface, remove
the sticky cover for the unused 'CAT' warning lamp
as shown in this photo
and fit the green 2W lamp in this location. At this point
it is worth noting that the early cars have an unused yellow warning
symbol that resembles a steering wheel in deference to the 'CAT' legend
on later cars. Dunno why - but I'm 100% sure that this is the correct
lamp location for the MIL bulb on Californian cars.
This link
lists the different warning lamp legends applicable to the S2. Please
note that if you have an MY95 S2 (S chassis) with the factory fitted immobiliser
- you will have to work with the unised lamp location above the 'CAT' lamp.
More details here.
- Reconnect all of the electrical plugs
back into the instrument cluster as normal.
- At this point, you may wish to test
the newly installed cable and CAT lamp. Do this by turning on the
ignition and then touching the other end of the new wire to the chassis
(0V). The red CAT lamp will only be lit whilst this circuit to 0V/earth
is closed.
- Temporarily
loop or tuck the new section of wire in behind the instrument
cluster which can then be refitted as normal.
PART 3 - Completing the MIL Circuit
- Now working in the driver side footwell,
use an 8mm socket to remove the four bolts which secure the parcel shelf
to the dashboard. Three bolts are on the top edge, and the fourth is
down near the bonnet release.
- Slide the parcel tray carefully
out of the plastic clip at the pedals. If your car has diagnostic
plugs in the drivers parcel shelf (early 3B only) then you may wish to
unclip them, so that the tray can be moved out of the way for the next
tasks. Try not to panic when you see the mad rampant mess of spaghetti
cabling which is lurking under the dash. Fortunately, the access you need
is very easy.
- Locate the new loop of cable which
connects to the yellow cluster
plug from Part 2. Unloop it, then tie-wrap and/or tape it along the
existing loom from the cluster such that it makes a sensible route
to the black
5-pin connector (known as T5) shown in this photo
. This is where it will connect to the 'blink output' driver from
the ECU. Leave enough slack cable to work with for the new connection
point.
- Looking at the T5 connector,
you will see a gray/brown (gr/br) coloured wire on the pedal
side of the connector which is unterminated. On the ABY engine this
corresponds to pin 4 (four) on the T5 plug, but it is pin 3 (three)
on the 3B engine (thanks to
Steve Henson for confirming that). This is the wire needed
to drive the MIL function. As a double-check, you can perform a continuity
test with a multimeter from this wire to the BLUE diagnostic plug on
your car. The reading should be a short circuit (0 Ω) confirming that
you have located the correct wire !
- Trim and connect the new wire from
the cluster to this gray/brown wire on T5. An ideal connection
would be with a crimped pin that inserts into the empty receptacle
of T5 but such connector pins and crimp tools are
very hard to find. Other ways to make the connection are with insulated
male & female spade terminals or with a 'scotchlok' style connector.
The latter has the advantage of not needing to cut into the gray/brown
wire and fiddle about with wire strippers and crimpers etc. Either way,
make a secure connection and ensure all the wiring is neatly and safely
taped or tied into the factory loom.
Now turn on the ignition and look with awe
and amazement at the newly illuminated 'CAT' lamp which serves as a wonderful
Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL).
Some brief notes on MIL operation -
- When the engine is started the CAT
lamp will extinguish.
- It will only illuminate with the engine
running when there is an active fault detected by the ECU.
- Additionally, the MIL circuit can
be used to view blink codes whenever required. Simply follow the
directions in this page
but forget fiddling with the LED or test lamp at the blue
connector.
- Finally, when the ECU is communicating
with VAG-COM (or VAG1551) in basic settings
mode the MIL circuit is activated. This will undoubtably raise
an eyebrow at your local VAG dealership ;-)
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There are several subtle differences
in the legends used for the warning lamps as outlined in Part 2. Each of
these lamp legends can be ordered individually from Audi and can easily
replace the existing one by simple disassembly of the instrument cluster.
The table below captures each of the fourteen variants. One of these must
have been used in the Californian cars with a proper 'check engine' symbol,
but ETKA does not give any clues. Best guess would be 893-919-249-H. Comments
& corrections welcome as always... Images to follow as and when.
Thanks to Jim Slevin for spotting
the fly in the ointment with the MIL circuit on cars fitted with the factory
immobilser. These vehicles, produced in MY95, use the 'CAT' location for a
lamp that is activated by the immobiliser. ETKA only shows this anomolie on
the RS2 but it is applicable to the latest S2 Coupes. An alternate location
for a warning lamp on these cars that can be used for the MIL circuit is available
at the yellow cluster connector on pin 26 (twenty six). The legend for this
lamp is actually for roof operation on the 80 cabriolet so the sense is a
bit odd, but it will work fine.
Part Number
|
Application
|
Region
|
Notes
|
893-919-249-M
|
S2
|
-
|
Up to chassis No. P-003
000 (mid MY93). Believe this is variant with yellow steering wheel legend.
|
8A1-919-249-A
|
S2
|
-
|
From chassis No. P-003
001 (mid MY93). This is the variant with red CAT legend.
|
8A1-919-249-H
|
S2, RS2
|
-
|
From chassis No.
S-000 001 (MY95). This variant is for immobiliser equipped vehicles. An
alternate warning lamp location is needed on these cars for the MIL circuit.
|
893-919-249-N
|
S2
|
Italy
|
Up to chassis No.
P-003 000 (mid MY93). Guess this is variant with yellow steering wheel legend.
Italian variant has additional 'lights-on' warning lamp in deference to
trailer turning indicator elsewhere.
|
8A1-919-249-C
|
S2
|
Italy
|
From chassis No.
P-003 001 (mid MY93). Guess this is variant with red CAT legend.
Italian variant has additional 'lights-on' warning lamp in deference
to trailer turning indicator elsewhere.
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8A1-919-249-K
|
|
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From chassis No.
S-000 001 (MY95). Guess this variant is for immobiliser equipped vehicles
originally destined for Italy. An alternate warning lamp location is needed
on these cars for the MIL circuit.
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893-919-249-H
|
80/90/Coupe
|
-
|
Up to chassis No.
M-040 000 (end MY91)
|
8A1-919-249
|
80/90/Coupe
|
-
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From chassis No.
N-000 001 (start MY92)
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893-919-249-J
|
80/90/Coupe
|
Italy
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Up to chassis No.
M-040 000 (end MY91)
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8A1-919-249-B
|
80/90/Coupe
|
Italy
|
From chassis No.
N-000 001 (start MY92)
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893-919-249-K
|
80/90/Coupe
|
Japan
|
Up to chassis No.
M-040 000 (end MY91)
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8A1-919-249-D
|
80/90/Coupe
|
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From chassis No.
N-000 001 (start MY92)
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893-919-249-G
|
80/90/Coupe
|
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Up to chassis No.
M-040 000 (end MY91)
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8A1-919-249-F
|
80/90/Coupe
|
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From chassis No.
N-000 001 (start MY92)
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KSA = Kingdom of Saudia Arabia
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