Replacing the Auxiliary Radiator

Special Notes :

1. Ensure you have all the necessary replacement bolts and mountings for the auxiliary radiator as the old ones may be unrecoverable from the old radiator. See parts list below...

2. This job should only be attempted when the engine is cold.

3. This job requires that the car be SECURELY supported on axle stands for the duration of the task.

4. Due to the improved access to the front of the engine, when the auxiliary radiator is removed, it is very easy to check and replace the drivebelts for the power steering, alternator and aircon compressor (where fitted).

5. Allow one - two hours to complete the task. Actual time will depend on how (un)lucky you are with seized fasteners. Removing the lower mountings is a particularly annoying challenge because of the restricted access to the bolts.


Tools Required :

10mm combination spanner
13mm combination spanner
Screwdriver for jubilee clips (or 8mm 1/4” drive socket)
Screwdriver for radiator cover
7mm 1/4” drive socket
Torx size T25 socket MAY be required on top mountings - Check first


Parts Required :

Auxiliary Radiator 895-121-251
Lower mounting bush (2-off) 443-121-273E
Nuts for above (2-off) N90-175-203 includes 'combi' washer

Also -
Top mounting bracket 8A0-121-263C and rubber bush 055-129-669
Bolt for above N10-005-303 - also with 'combi' washer
Hose clips as required




Step by step removal & refitting guide -

Click any photo for larger, higher resolution images.

  1. Jack up the front of the car

  2. Support it securely on axle stands

  3. Open the bonnet and remove the cap from the coolant expansion tank.


  4. Working underneath the car, remove the sump guard

  5. Still underneath the car, loosen the clip on the lowermost coolant hose on the MAIN radiator

  6. Removing the bottom hose, drain as much coolant as possible from the system into a suitable container. Engine coolant must be disposed of properly as per local regulations.

  7. Remove the radiator cover - normally affixed with three or four cross-head screws.


  8. In order to gain sufficient access to the auxiliary radiator, the lock carrier (aka front panel) must be removed. In doing so, this can move the bonnet’s rubber stops from their current position, so ensure that their positions are marked clearly and/or measured accurately before removing them. This procedure does NOT interfere with the position of the actual bonnet lock assembly.

  9. Remove the two bonnet stops from the lock carrier with a 13mm spanner on the locknut (arrowed), then the rubber jointed fitting can be unscrewed by hand (if you are lucky). This minimises interference with the height setting.


  10. Using a 7mm socket, carefully loosen the clamp bolt for the bonnet release cable. This is located on the left side of the lock carrier. You may need to carefully bend the cable so that it can be released properly.

  11. Remove the guide sleeve on the bonnet cable at the release mechanism - just enough to ensure that the bonnet cable will move easily with the lock carrier when it is detached.

  12. Remove the auxiliary radiator top mount bolt (a). Also remove the bolt locating the bracket for the radiator cover onto the lock carrier (b). The latter bolt is located just above the upper hose on the aux radiator. These may be standard 10mm headed hex bolts, but may also be T25 Torx bolts. In the latter case these MUST be removed with the proper socket. Should they be severely encrusted (like they were on my car) they will have to be carefully drilled out and replaced.


  13. Remove the bracket that secures the front bumper to the lock carrier. This is secured by two 10mm headed nuts. Removal of this bracket eases the access to the nut in the next step. On no account should you interfere with the the bonnet lock bolts. Their alignment is preserved on the lock carrier when it is removed.


  14. Remove the screw which secures the front bumper to the bracket in the centre of the lock carrier. Remove the bottom bolt on the lock carrier with a 10mm spanner.


  15. Remove the screw that secures the lock carrier to plastic trim near the right headlamp.


  16. If fitted, remove the screw that secures a bracket for the radiator shroud onto the auxiliary radiator.

  17. Remove the four 10mm headed bolts (Two each side) securing the lock carrier onto the bodywork.

  18. Carefully remove the lock carrier assembly from the bodywork taking care not to snag or kink the bonnet release cable. The lock carrier assembly can be rested on top of the engine whilst the work is completed on the aux radiator.

  19. Loosen and remove the hose clips at the auxiliary radiator, gently twisting the hoses to dislodge them. Prepare to catch any remaining coolant in a suitable container for disposal.

  20. Using a 10mm spanner, working from the top, it is just possible to lossen the two lower mounting bolts for the aux radiator by leaning it towards the front of the car to improve clearance. The mounting holes are slotted such that the bolts need only be loosened enough to allow the rubber mounts to be pushed backwards out of the slot.

  21. Remove the auxiliary radiator, raising it proudly aloft with two hands, run around the workshop yelling ‘Eureka’ and feel generally satisfied with oneself for getting this far. NOW you can see the slots for the lower mounts:)


  22. Fit new lower mounts and bolts to the new auxiliary radiator. If you had to drill out the top mount then you’ll also need to fit a replacement with it's rubber insert along with a new 'combi' bolt.


  23. Refitting is the reversal removal, noting that it is good practice to renew all disturbed clips and bolts.

  24. Don’t forget to double check the security of the bottom hose clip on the main radiator before filling the system with coolant.

  25. Fill the system with the desired amount of coolant and use the bleed screw on top of the main radiator to release air from the system as it warms up. Check the level and replace the cap on the expansion tank.


Top-Tip : Do NOT refit the sump guard until the very last moment for two reasons. Firstly it makes it very easy to spot a potential leak at the bottom hose. Secondly it cracks you up when you have to remove the sump guard to retrieve a spanner that was dropped from above - BTDT.





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Last Updated 12th June 2002